Using the X20


by Rico Pfirstinger

Talk to Rico (questions & feedback) – X20 sample images set X20/X10 comparison images set

So you have pulled the trigger on a new X20? Let’s compile a few tips and tricks to get you started!


The X20 has a new Auto-ISO function that is based on the classic X100 and mimics the functionality of the new X100S. In Auto-ISO, you can set the ISO base (minimum ISO / default sensitivity), the ISO limit (maximum ISO sensitivity) and the minimum shutter speed. These settings can also be saved in different customer profiles (C1 and C2).

If you plan to use the DR (dynamic range) function (DR Auto, DR200% or DR400%) you should set the camera to Auto-ISO. Unlike the X10 with its EXR sensor, the X20 needs to raise the ISO sensitivity to a minimum of ISO 200 for DR200% and ISO 400 for DR400%. You can read this X-Pert Corner article to learn more about how to expand dynamic range.

Auto-ISO’s minimum shutter speed can be augmented by the optical image stabilizer (OIS) of the X20 when you set the OIS to one of its two “motion” modes. In these modes, the camera will scan the scene for motion and crank up the shutter speed (and along with it the ISO setting) accordingly. Of course, the camera can only do this when Auto-ISO is active. For example, my X20 chose ISO 400 and 1/320s (instead of ISO 100 and a slower shutter speed) when I shot these horses trotting directly towards the camera:


Once the horses had come to a stop, I took another pic, but this time, the camera reverted back to ISO 100 and a more moderate shutter speed of 1/150s:


Aperture was kept at f/5.0. Both shots were taken in Aperture priority (A) mode.


The X20 offers two basic AF modes, AF-C and AF-S, with several AF-S submodes: Tracking, Area and Multi, plus optional Face Detection. Face Detection is quite practical, but when it misses (because there is no face in the picture or because the camera can’t recognize one), the X20 will revert to Multi mode or Area mode, using only the central of its 49 AF fields in Area mode. Obviously, this may not lead to the desired result. Tracking mode is a little known but quite practical and powerful way to ensure correct focusing on a particular part of a scene. To use it, activate it (you can easily do this in the Quick menu), position the tracking frame over the subject of your choice (like a face) and press the arrow-left button. Your X20 will keep its focus on the selected subject (using pattern recognition), even when the subject is moving around or when you are panning the camera to reframe your shot. Don’t pan too fast or swiftly, though. Keep things smooth and everything will be alright.

What if your subject is moving towards the camera? Sure, there’s AF-C, but AF-C is no “real” object tracking mode. Better use the old “Autofocus Trick”, also known as “shutter mash technique”: Set the camera to AF-S or AF-C (use AF-S if you want to assign a particular AF field, use AF-C if you are okay with the center spot or area) and press the shutter all the way through in one quick, swift motion (no half-pressing!) while keeping the AF field trained over  the area of your subject that you want to be in focus. Since the X20 operates with Autofocus Priority, it won’t take the shot until it has actually locked focus (or until it gave up, in which case the shot will probably be wasted). This cropped example of a horse running directly towards the camera was shot using the Autofocus Trick:


Please remember that the X20 features a hybrid autofocus system: a mix of CDAF (contrast detection autofocus) and PDAF (phase detection autofocus). PDAF is quicker, but only works in good lighting, such as 5 EV or better. More importantly, PDAF is only available in about 36% of the sensor area, covering the center 9 (3 x 3) AF fields. So for best (fastest) AF results, shoot in good light and use the center 9 AF fields. You don’t have to worry about which of the two AF methods to use. The camera will take care of that for you.

Shutter Lag

While the Autofocus Trick will obviously introduce some shutter lag (defined as the time between you pressing the shutter and the camera taking the shot) due to the camera’s AF Priority operation, you can significantly reduce this time period by priming the camera during normal shooting. All you need to do is half-press the shutter while anticipating the actual shot.

Mirrorless cameras like the X20 (and the rest of the X series) have a distinct way of operation: During Live View, they are constantly adapting the lens aperture to the brightness of the light that’s entering the lens. However, for exposure measurement and focusing purposes, the camera has to fully open up the aperture. Then, right before actually taking the shot, the aperture needs to be closed again to reflect the chosen “working aperture” settings. Half-pressing the shutter button performs this sequence and primes the camera to minimize any shutter lag. If you don’t half-press the shutter button before actually taking the shot, shutter lag will increase even if you are using manual focus. Smaller apertures will also induce a longer shutter lag than wide-open settings, as the aperture blades have to travel a longer way from their wide open measuring position to their final working aperture position.

To reduce shutter lag in “unprimed” shooting (as with the Autofocus Trick), it may be smart to set the camera’s OIS to one of its two “continuous” modes. That way, the OIS will already be up and running when you take the shot, saving a few milliseconds. For primed shooting (with a half-depressed shutter before taking the shot), this isn’t relevant, because the OIS will spin up as soon as the shutter button is half-pressed.

This also explains the four different OIS modes of the camera: You can combine the “continuous” and “shooting only” options with motion detection either on or off, giving you a total of four options.


Like all X series cameras, the X20 features a variety of shortcuts that can make your life much easier. Sometimes it’s the little things that make a difference:

  • Press and hold the Q button for a few seconds to clearly increase the brightness of the LCD. This can be quite helpful when operating the camera in bright light, like on a sunny day.
  • Press and hold the MENU/OK button down to lock or unlock the arrow keys and the Q button.
  • A long press of the Fn button will bring up the Fn button’s configuration menu, where you can assign one of several functions. I typically assign Face Recognition On/Off to the Fn button, as I want to use this feature only in situations where I expect the camera to recognize and focus on a face. I want to be able to quickly turn this feature on and off.
  • Press the DISP/BACK button for a couple seconds to activate (or deactivate) the camera’s Silent Mode. When this mode is turned on, the X20 functions quietly and inconspicuously. It won’t make any artificial noises and it abstains from using both the flash and the AF-assist lamp.
  • In addition to that, pressing the DISP/BACK button while selecting an AF field in AF-S Area mode will directly select the central AF field.
  • Finally, to check (or upgrade) the firmware version of the camera, press and hold the DISP/BACK button while switching on the camera.
  • When using the camera’s playback mode, you can press the command dial to enlarge the current image as much as possible to inspect its sharpness.
  • Rather than selecting a function in the shooting menu by pressing the OK button, you can press the shutter button halfway down. Pressing the shutter button halfway down while in playback mode switches the camera directly into shooting mode. You can wake the camera by pressing the shutter button halfway down as well.
  • You can switch the camera on and off by simply pressing the playback button on the back of the camera—no need to turn the lens. The camera will enter playback mode, and only the playback and setup menus will be available. So if you want to take new pictures, you have to use the traditional way to switch-on the X20.
Optical Viewfinder (OVF)

Like every non-TTL (mirrorless) optical viewfinder camera, the X20 is prone to parallax error. This means that the image you see in the optical viewfinder doesn’t always reflect the image that is actually recorded by the camera. Even worse, the focus field you have selected may not point to the area of the frame that the camera is actually focusing on. This is unavoidable, as the lens/sensor and the OVF are located on different optical axes and see things from slightly different angles. Parallax error is negligible for objects that are far away, but it can be quite strong when shooting (and focusing on) things that sit close to the camera.

Luckily, the X20 is trying to compensate parallax error in the OVF by illuminating parallax-corrected AF frames once focus has been locked and the X20 “knows” the camera-object distance.

Let’s have a look at the AF field grid of the X20 OVF:

This is just a schematic, as you can’t actually see the black grid in the viewfinder. It’s invisible, but the camera will illuminate different AF fields in green once focus has been locked, showing you where or what it has actually focused on.

Like the X100, X100S and X-Pro1, the OVF of the X20 only supports the camera’s inner 25 (5 x 5) AF fields. Let’s assume you have selected the central AF field with the AF button. You can’t normally see your selection in the OVF, but you can make it temporarily visible (in blue) by pressing the AF-L button. Here we go:

This is also where the camera would focus without parallax error. For example, if you are shooting a far away landscape, parallax is not an issue and the X20 will confirm focus in the central AF field with a green rectangle like this:

I used the red circle to illustrate the area the camera is actually focusing on. All is nice and dandy here.

But what if you are focusing on a nearby object? In this case, the AF frames in the OVF may look like this:

Here, the camera tells you that it’s actually focusing on an area slightly below the central AF field.

The view may also look like this:

In this example, the actual AF area is located slightly below and also slightly right of the central AF field.

Here’s another option:

In this example, the actual AF area is offset one full AF frame below as well as slightly to the right of the selected central AF field.

On order to achieve correctly focused results, you have to make sure that in the OVF, the actual AF area (as illustrated by my red dots) is located above the object you want to be in focus. If this is not the case, reframe and try again.

If the object you are focusing on is too close for the camera to correctly indicate parallax error in the OVF, it won’t illuminate an AF field at all and instead display a blinking green flower symbol:

In this case, better use the LCD to focus.

If you select one of the 24 outer AF fields on the LCD that aren’t fully supported in the OVF, the OVF display will change to reflect this selection. Here are a few examples, each indicating that one of three possible outer AF fields is currently active:

Offering parallax-corrected AF field frames in the OVF makes the X20 quite unique and its viewfinder pretty useful. It’s notable that this powerful feature is barely mentioned or explained in the X20 owner’s manual. Maybe this is Fuji’s way of telling me to write more camera books? Scroll down to the very end if you also shoot with a X-Pro1 or X-E1—my book “Mastering the Fujifilm X-Pro1” may be right up your alley.

To wrap things up, let’s have a quick look at the X20’s RAW options. As explained here, it’s smart to always shoot in FINE+RAW. Here’s a practical example. The following scene was shot with default settings (Provia):

It is okay, but it’s somewhat flat and a bit underexposed. Using the built-in RAW converter of the X20, it only took me about 30 seconds to redevelop this shot with Push +2/3 EV, Astia film mode, White Balance 5300K, Color +2, Sharpness +1, Highlight Tone -2 and Noise Reduction -2:

Call me old-fashioned, but I like this one better.

In my X20 vs. X10 comparison, I said that I considered the X20 better suitable for external RAW workflows than the X10. So if you are into Silkypix or Lightroom, the X20 may be a great camera for you. Here’s how I’ve developed this series of shots in Adobe Lightroom, with a few additional tweaks in Apple Aperture:





Click on the images for full-size viewing options.

Enjoy your new X20!
Next week, we’ll look into some tips for using the X100S.

[ US residents can now purchase the X20 at ebayUS here.
X100S: BHphoto / AdoramaAmazonUS / AmazonDEAmazonUK / AmazonITA / DigitalRev / your ebay / your Amazon
X20:  BHphoto (blacksilver) / Adorama (blacksilver) / AmazonUS (blacksilver) / AmazonUK (blacksilver) / AmazonDE / AmazonITA / DigitalRev / your ebay / your Amazon ]

For your convenience, here’s a TOC with links to my previous X-PERT CORNER articles:

Rico Pfirstinger studied communications and has been working as journalist, publicist, and photographer since the mid-80s. He has written a number of books on topics as diverse as Adobe PageMaker and sled dogs, and produced a beautiful book of photographs titled Huskies in Action (German version). He has spent time working as the head of a department with the German Burda-Publishing Company and served as chief editor for a winter sports website. After eight years as a freelance film critic and entertainment writer in Los Angeles, Rico now lives in Germany and devotes his time to digital photography and compact camera systems. His book “Mastering the FUJIFILM X-Pro1” (Kindle Edition) (Apple iBook Store) (German version) is available on Amazon and offers a plethora of tips, secrets and background information on successfully using Fuji’s X-Pro1 and X-E1 system cameras, lenses and key accessories.

© 2013 Rico Pfirstinger, all rights reserved.

  • Which brings us to the point of minimum shutter speed in Auto-ISO. Why isn’t it yet on the XPro1 via FW update?

  • Aidan

    Thanks Rico, great article as ever.
    My problem now is – I bought my X-Pro 1 so I would always have my camera with me (Canon 5D plus lenses was far too bulky to always bring along on my travels.)
    That has worked just fine, but now I find myself really wanting an X20 too. Which would increase the volume of equipment I carry around (assuming I also have my X-Pro 1 with me…)

    It’s a nice problem to have, but I don’t know what to do! ;-)

  • Gab

    Yeah, it always comes down to that bloody auto iso… Sigh, are there any Xp1 firmware rumors? :-)

  • Justin

    Many thanks again to Rico for bringing us such clear and useful information. I had noticed the enlarged AF frame in the OVF and wondered about it: all is now revealed to be logical and very helpful, but it might have taken some figuring without the illustrations above!

    Maybe I need to read the manual again, but does anyone know the maximum shutter speed for flash sync? Does the X20 follow the X100 with a very fast one, or the X-Pro1 with a much slower one?

  • peter

    Very helpful Rico! thanks. I haven’t been able to see the blue focus area yet in the OVF but I’m sure that says more about my eyes than anything else!

    So far I’m very happy about the X20. As you already said, it offers some great improvements compared to the X10. Currently one thing puzzles me.. I took a shot under the same lighting conditions. Both cameras set at 35mm, A 5.6 and ISO 320 (just happened to set it like this based on X10 shutter speed). Both Provia. DR100. Everything else medium.

    There turned out to be a full stop exposure difference (the x20 being underexposed). Does this mean that the Xtrans sensor has a natural tendency to underexpose or could it relate to differences in producing jpegs?

    Thanks, Peter

    • No, it means that you probably used DR200% and compared the images in an external RAW converter.

      • peter

        Thanks. That’s what I initially thought too but I double checked IN camera. I did some other exposure checks and they turned up to be almost identical, so it was probably a one-time thing caused by whatever-it-was. After all, we’re dealing with software. I won’t be surprised if a table was not adequately initialized but only after going through a specific sequence of setting changes (that I am not able to reproduce). I’ll keep an eye on it and check if I can reproduce.

        BTW: I am also happy to see that the resolution of the X20 is definitely higher. Not sure about percentage but definitely noticeable.

        • If you shoot DR100% and identical ISO, aperture and shutter speed in both cameras, the results should be quite similar. Definitely not 1 stop difference.

  • Iullian

    About focus priority – does X-E1 with the latest firmware have this?

    • Zak

      You mention face detection is available for the x20 – is this also a feature on the x100s? Although it may not be mostly relevant for a pro camera, I find the option really helpful when passing the camera to someone else to take a snapshot and they are not familiar with centre focus. Helps to avoid a lot of blurred shots!

      • Only for red-eye removal after the shot, not during shooting. There’s also no AF Tracking mode.

    • Yep, it works, and it’s fully explained and illustrated in my X-Pro1 book.

  • Malte

    Thanks for this, made my choice even easier.

  • Great information. As a person with hand tremors the Auto ISO Min Shutter Speed is a great feature. I was rather disappointed to learn that the grid lines do not show up in the OVF. Keep up the good work your articles are well done.

  • JargonTalk NYC

    Excellent and very thorough info. As one who came very close to getting an X10 and having a new X20 on its way right now, this is all good for me.


  • marcin


    thanks for very helpful article. One thing I’m not getting is ” press the shutter all the way through in one quick, swift motion (no half-pressing!) while keeping the AF field trained over the area of your subject that you want to be in focus” and then “All you need to do is half-press the shutter while anticipating the actual shot.”. So should I half-press the shutter? Or not? Or half-press then release then shoot?

    • That depends on whether you want to use the AF trick or not.

      • marcin

        Ah, OK, priming is only relevant to normal shooting, without AF trick. Sorry, I’ve missed it.

  • Mikael Sjöstedt

    Thank you Rico. Very good article.I got my X20 just a couple of days ago, and is very happy with my camera. I have one question. When i shoot RAW+F i get two files. How shall i store them on the HD, and how to treat them in Lightroom? Shall i store them in same folder, or separate folders. Make Lightroom treat the jpeg as separate file, or? I am not sure what is the best way to handle this, can you give some advice, plz?
    Thanks in advance

    • I store camera JPEGs (and LR results, usually TIFFs) in my Aperture library and only import RAWs in LR 4.4 (only using links to he location of the original RAW files on my drive) or in other RAW converters I may use.

  • ISO3782

    Hey Rico,
    How do you think will the x20 compete against the sony rx100? Do you think the fuji will out perform the sony because of the new sensor technology, or is the bigger sensor still the argument?


    • I have no idea. That’s Fuji’s (or Sony’s) problem. It’s also more of a marketing issue than a technology question, as am sure that 99% (or even more) viewers couldn’t tell a well-made RX100 print from a well-made X20 print in a blind test. So it is more a question for the pixel peepers, who will most certainly see differences at close examination.

      For me, it comes down to feature sets.

      If you don’t want/need an internal RAW converter, don’t want/need an OVF, don’t care about “Fuji colors” (aka film simulations) and, as a JPEG shooter, are perfectly happy with limited DR, the RX100 may be just the right camera for you. It’s small and pocketable, it has a good sensor and it doesn’t cost more than an X20.

      If, on the other hand, you like manual controls, manual zoom, an OVF, a built-in RAW converter, Fuji colors and nice dynamic range in OOC JPEGs, the X20 will give you all that, while the RX100 won’t give you any of that. The sensor size is just one item on a long list of features one can consider with these two cameras.

      And don’t forget the lens. If you need a fast lens at the long end, the X20 will be great, if you want a fast lens on the short end, the RX100 looks quite nice. So pick your choice.

      • ISO3782

        Thank you Rico, I’m already fuji-infected. I love my XE1…
        I only wanted to pick up the claim of the fuji campain.
        For me it is cristal clear to get the X20.
        Just happy you See ist the same way.
        Thank you for your great articles…


        • I find those Fuji claims about X20 2/3″ sensors matching 1″ sensors or X100S/X-Pro1 APS-C sensors matching full-frame sensors pretty idiotic. This only leads to heaps of direct comparisons that concentrate on sensor pixelpeeping, and in the end, the Fuji always loses out (of course it does, the sensor is much smaller!) by a tiny margin. If Fuji really thinks that an X-Pro1 is going to deliver the same pixelpeeping quality as a D800E or 5Mk3, I’d like to sample a taste of what they are smoking.

          So basically, those comparisons establish the X20 as the weakest of all current 1″ cameras, and the X-Pro1 as the weakest of all current full-frame cameras. Yeah, that marketing claim will for sure sell many cameras! Not. Instead, Fuji should state that the X20 is currently the best camera with a 2/3″ sensor, and the X100S, X-E1 and X-Pro1 are best in class in APS-C. That might also put an end to further ridiculous shootouts between Fujis and cameras with larger sensors. I would rather like to see shootouts between Fujis and other cameras with similar sensor size. Like comparing an X-E1 kit with a bunch of similarly priced APS-C DSLR kits. Wouldn’t that be reasonable for a change?

          What makes you feel better? Shooting the worst FF camera or the best APS-C camera on earth? Personally, I prefer the latter.

  • Adrian


    Do you have plans to write a book on the X20?


    • Possibly. Maybe Patrick should start a poll who’d like to buy one? I guess I’d write it as an eBook.

      • James

        In for one!

      • Terence

        If Rico need support to write a book about the X20 (in euros, dollars, French cheese…), I’m ready!

        • That cheesy part sounds really tempting. ;)

          • Thanks for the advice Rico. I’d love to see you write a book on the x20. I’ve been using manual cameras all my life, and have just made the jump to a digital , and although I understand aperture , speed, f stops etc, it would be extremely handy to have a understanding of how these work with the different p, m, a, and preset modes. There are also question like, why can’t I see shutter, aperture in the viewfinder on all settings, why does the LCD screen stay on for some and not all when I look thru the viewfinder? And do you have to set the shutter speed to a certain speed to enable flash in all modes.
            Many more question so maybe get composing that book..;)


  • Fab

    Hi to Rico and others, X20 noise questions:

    – Do you hear kind of rattle sound when shaking the camera? Does it come from the lens? Is it normal?

    – When I activate OVF-only display, I hear a “click” sound (I think from the shutter) when I half-press the main button. This sound disappears when LCD is activated.

    Thank you very much!

    • Terence

      Hi Fab,
      Hope you enjoy your X20 as well as I do! :)
      I don’t hear any “rattle sound” as you describe, but perhaps I don’t shake hard enough! ;)
      However, there is a “shutter sound” as you describe: perhaps the X20 need to do something with the shutter to display some informations in the OVF while it has not to do this for the LCD (as the LCD is not activated).

  • Terence

    Thanks again for these useful informations!
    However, does anyone nows where I can find an “guide” about JPG settings? I’m somewhat confused about the choice to make selecting “highlight tone”, “shadow tone”, “color”, etc.. I simply don’t know what to do… except try, try, try, and try again and choose which setting one I prefer? I suppose it depends on the scene being shot. :(
    Thanks in advance for your replies.

    • Sure, my book has a large sections explaining and illustrating all JPEG settings. They are the same for all X series cameras. :)

      • Terence

        Oh, I was not aware of that. I’ll order your book… but which one? I see only the XPro1 version is available, the XE1 one being available this summer.
        I don’t own any of these, but don’t you think the XE1 one will be more appropriate concerning the JPEG settings for the X20 (waiting for the X20 book, of course ;) ).

        Well, perhaps my question is a bit odd, as I think I won’t be able to wait until summer to read your advices about JPEG settings! :)

  • ALPH

    Thanks for this article.

    How schould I understand “Offering parallax-corrected AF field frames in the OVF makes the X20 quite unique and its viewfinder pretty useful”, specificly “parallax-corrected AF field frames”. I understand all your explainations on the AF field farme, but not this sentence.


    • Why should parallax-corrected AF frames in an OVF not be useful? I find them pretty useful, and it’s definitely a unique Fuji feature.

      • ALPH


        Sorry, I don’t understand what you mean with ” parallax-corrected AF frames”. What is that ? I don’t find anything on that in the user manual. In all desriptions or articles about the X20, I read that there is no parallax correction in the OVF.
        Thanks for your explanations.

        • Um…about half of this article is explaining exactly this….

          • ALPH

            I read carrefully and translate in French your explanations about the OVF, read carrefully the documentation in English and French and make some trials with my new X20. I continue to be perplexed on the expression ” parallax-corrected AF frames ”
            Knowing that the OVF is fixed (no parallax corection), would “parallax-corrected AF frames” mean that the AF frames are moving in the OVF ? If not, what is corrected and how?
            Thanks for answer.

          • ALPH

            I possess an X20. I read the user guide a least twice. There is no mention of any parallax-corrected AF frame. By using it I did not either see this function
            On the other hand the X100 S and the X-Pro1 have such an function, see user guide page 78 and 70 respectively; I do not possess these two devices, it is for that reason I look in the tmanual.
            Thanks for taking into account my comment. Or perhaps I am wrong.

  • Terence

    I “discovered” a new (well, I don’t remember having read this anywhere) shortcut:

    When half-pressing the shutter button, rolling left or right the main command dial will show in the OVF the ISO selected by the X20, instead of showing the speed and aperture. Pretty useful to check, in AUTO ISO mode, the actual ISO selected before to take the shot.

    Hope it will be an interesting news!

  • Terence


    Something I “understood” today about the OVF (it’s not detailed in the manual): when in M, A or S modes, the little arrows, normally associated with the exposure icon, show us if we need to “raise” or “lower” the aperture or speed.

    These arrows, associated with the exposure icon, appear in the OVF when we have turned the exposure compensation dial. However, without the exposure icon, they appear as follows:

    In M mode:

    if the combination aperture-speed will give an overexposed picture, the “up” arrow appear: we can understand it as “raise the speed” or “raise the F number”, which will give the same result concerning exposition.
    if the combination will give an underexposed picture, the “down” arrow will appear. It’s finally the opposite of the “exposure needle” in my dad’s Asahi Pentax ;) .

    What’s more, this is true even when no “half pressing” has been done. It’s done all the time.

    In S mode:

    if the speed will lead to an overexposed picture, the up arrow will appear for the same reasons than above.
    if the speed will lead to an underexposed picture, the down arrow will appear for the same reasons than above.

    The arrows show us if we need to raise or lower the speed.

    Contrary to the M mode, this is done only when “half pressing” the shutter button.

    In A mode:

    if the aperture will lead to an overexposed picture, the up arrow will appear for the same reasons than above.
    the down arrow doesn’t appear in this mode because the X20 is able to select a very low speed to achieve the correct exposure (but the “blur alert” will appear…)

    Contrary to the M mode, this is done only when “half pressing” the shutter button.

    I think most of you had already understood all of this, but I wanted to help if it was not the case!

  • bryan

    I would like to get some tips. Im having trouble using teh OVF. I not use this. I was more used to the view finder of an slr. What can you advice me regarding this?

    thank you

  • Hi! I´m looking for tips on how to set up my X20 for fastest action when doing street photography. I wonder if can be as fast as my analog Leica? Tahnx on beforehand, K Aunver in Schweden

  • john

    I have had my X20 since it came out – I do really like it – I have the Sony RX100 as well – both are great – the Sony is of course smaller so sometimes more practical and has nicer art filters – however the X20 is really nice and fun to use – one of the most beautiful cameras out there.
    The lens is faster in the X20 vs the RX100 but RX100 has a bigger sensor – so IQ is very similar.

    So I am very excited to see what the X30 will have – RX100M2 is out and offers a tilt-able LCD and better low light ability with their ExmorR sensor –
    Rumor is that Fuji X30 will have at least 1 inch sensor – would that be nice – but having seen the update to the X-E1 to X-E2 I am not expecting much – I seriously doubt that there will be a 1 inch sensor –
    My thinking is that it might have a til-able LCD and a simple WIFI and some few minor things –

    Fuji has really disappointed with their X-M1 and X-A1 and the X-E2 – not that the IQ is not there but it is time to put Touch LCD and tilt-able LCD’s – better video – more features –

    I do have the X20 and X100 – the X100 is horrible in AF speed – and will not focus in lower light which is a shame as IQ is fine in low light –
    The X20 is a real joy to use but needs an update to keep up with the RX100M2

    I now just got the Panasonic GX7 which is a really fun camera to use – just loaded with features –
    I also have the Sony NEX5n and NEX7 and OMD-5 –

    I do appreciate the Fuji colors so have been waiting to buy a higher end Fuji and was hoping that the X-E2 would be it –
    Call me modern I would prefer a Mode dial – with at least 2-3 custom options – so one can quickly change to custom settings –
    Also who does not like the Touch to Focus or Touch to Shoot instead of playing with a up left down right wheel or buttons to move to a focus point or 8000 sec shutter etc.

    I think the Sony A7/R will be to heavy with the FF lenses so to me the Fuji X-E20 is up there in IQ and low light ability and lighter camera body and lighter and smaller lenses – but just lacking in features –

    I guess it suits the purists that want things all manual – like the Leica M9 users who are willing to pay $7000 for a camera that does not even auto focus – my eyesight is just not good enough to deal with manual focusing and even focus peeking.

    So I hope I am wrong on what the X30 will be – as I am ready to buy another Fuji –

    wishlist for X30

    at least 1 inch sensor
    backlit sensor
    (keep the same looks of body)
    add a power on of button
    Tilt-able LCD
    Touch LCD – with Touch to shoot
    More art filters
    keep lens the same F2.0-F2.8
    add more Fn buttons
    ND filter or 8000sec

  • Nick

    I’m in the process of upgrading from a Nokia Lumia 920 to a camera that I can carry with me almost as often as the smartphone. My initial choice was a Canon EOS M because of its smartphone like handling. It also enables touch focus and shooting (not sure if it also meters at the focus point like the 920). It was reasonably small and seemed to tick all the boxes. However, its AF was not good and because I wanted to use it for street shooting, among other types, I waited to see if a pro version would be released.

    Since then I have been looking at everything, including the upcoming X-T1 which looks awesome. Then I read about the handling of the X20 and it seemed to be a much more appropriate place to jump to. That is, until I read about the quality issues of the sensor, particularly the noise that creeps in at around ISO 400.

    The X20 isn’t as compact as the Sony RX100 MkII, but when I handled the Sony yesterday I could not get into it. Size was a factor as well, I think. Looking at the X20 on Youtube I immediately got a good feel for it. So, I too am hoping Fuji resolve the sensor and QI issues in the X30, while keeping the handling the same (or better, of course) as the X20.

    Actually, I was initially surprised that Fuji had not released a firmware update to address the ISO and other QI issues. However, it occurred to me that the problem might be physical.

  • David

    I am getting used to my new X20 and reading all the ino I can get. Results with this camera are superb. However I have only used flash for the first time this week, and I do not understand the cameras auto settings.
    In P mode I have Auto ISO set to 1600 max and the minimum shutter speed to 1/15sec.
    Every flash photograph taken uses these settings !. Whatever the subject only the aperture will vary.
    Am I missing something from my film days flash always used 1/30 – 1/00 sec dependent on the shutter type.
    Any advice greatfully received

  • Sa Man

    i should back to canon Dslr but this camera, classy and great for B&W photography.

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