Using the X100S


by Rico Pfirstinger

Talk to Rico (questions & feedback)X100S sample images set X100S/X100 comparison images set

The X100S has hit the shelves, and it appears to be quite popular. It’s an evolutionary camera, improving the very successful “classic” X100 in many fields and aspects. Following the lead of last week’s “Using the X20” article, here’s a compilation of tips and tricks to get you started with the new “S”. This article is partly building on my earlier “X100S vs. X100” text, so it assumes that you have read it. Let’s once again begin with…


The X100S features an improved Auto-ISO function that is based on the classic X100. In Auto-ISO, you can set the ISO base (minimum ISO / default sensitivity), the ISO limit (maximum ISO sensitivity) and the minimum shutter speed. Different Auto-ISO settings can be saved in each of the camera’s three custom shooting profiles (C1 – C3). For more information on shooting profiles and how to use them, access them and configure them, please have a look at my very first X-Pert Corner article. Like with the X-E1 and X-Pro1, you can change settings and select shooting profiles in the Quick Menu by pressing the Q button. Remember that BASIC is just a funny acronym for the camera’s currently selected/active settings. BASIC is neither a preset nor some default profile. Sadly and contrary to statements in the owner’s manual, the X100S features not seven, but only three custom shooting profiles.

If you plan to use the DR (dynamic range) function (DR Auto, DR200% or DR400%) you should set the camera to Auto-ISO. You may also want to consider reading this X-Pert Corner article to learn more about how to expand dynamic range. In order to work with DR200%, the X100S needs an ISO setting of at least 400. For DR400%, it needs an ISO setting of at least 800.

Auto-ISO is now also a part of the ISO menu when you use the Fn button to change ISO settings. This is quite useful and an improvement over the X100, where you had to dive into the shooting menu to (re-)configure Auto-ISO settings.


The X100S offers the same AF modes as the X100: AF-C and AF-S, with two AF-S submodes:Area and Multi. AF-C is basically behaving like AF-S and known to be very effective in low light situations with bad contrast. This also means that AF-C is no real object tracking mode (unlike the Hybrid-AF systems in the Nikon 1 or Sony NEX 6). So when you are shooting objects that quickly move towards the camera, better use the famous “Autofocus Trick”, also known as “shutter mash technique”: Set the camera to AF-S or AF-C (use AF-S if you want to assign a particular AF field, use AF-C if you are okay with the center spot or area) and press the shutter all the way through in one quick, swift motion (no half-pressing!) while keeping the AF field trained over  the area of your subject that you want to be in focus. Since the X100S operates with Autofocus Priority, it won’t take the shot until it has actually locked focus (or until it gave up, in which case the shot will probably be wasted). This cropped example of a horse trotting directly towards the camera was shot at open aperture (f/2) using the Autofocus Trick, with the AF frame trained on the pony’s head:

DSCF0037 - X100S "AF trick"

Please remember that the X100S features a new hybrid autofocus system: a mix of CDAF (contrast detection autofocus) and on-sensor PDAF (phase detection autofocus). PDAF is quicker, but only works in good light, such as 5 EV or better. More importantly, PDAF is only available in about 40% of the sensor area, covering the center 9 (3 x 3) AF fields. So for best (fastest) AF results, shoot in good light and use the center 9 AF fields. You don’t have to worry about which of the two AF methods to use. The camera will take care of that for you.

Shutter Lag

While the Autofocus Trick will obviously introduce some shutter lag (defined as the time between you pressing the shutter and the camera taking the shot) due to the camera’s AF Priority operation, you can significantly reduce this time period by priming the camera during normal shooting (= shooting without tricks). All you need to do is half-press the shutter while anticipating the actual shot.

Mirrorless cameras like the X series have a distinct way of operation: During Live View, they are constantly adapting the lens aperture to the brightness of the ambient light that’s entering the lens. However, for exposure measurement and focusing purposes, the camera has to fully open up the aperture. Then, right before actually taking the shot, the aperture has to be closed again to reflect the chosen “working aperture” settings. Half-pressing the shutter button performs this sequence and primes the camera to minimize any shutter lag. If you don’t half-press the shutter button before actually taking the shot, shutter lag will increase even if you are using manual focus and manual exposure. When the camera isn’t primed before taking the shot, smaller apertures will also induce a longer shutter lag than wide-open settings, as the aperture blades have to travel a longer way from their wide open measuring position to their final working aperture position.


The X100S features an impressive list of shortcuts that can make your life much easier:

  • Press and hold the Q button for a few seconds to clearly increase the brightness of the LCD. This can be quite helpful when operating the camera in bright light, like on a sunny day.
  • Press and hold the MENU/OK button down to lock or unlock the arrow keys and the Q button.
  • A long press of the Fn button will bring up the Fn button’s configuration menu, where you can assign one of several functions. I typically assign ISO to this button, because I like to be able to quickly change my Auto-ISO configuration (minimum shutter speed). Another popular option for this button is enabling the camera’s built-in ND filter.
  • Press and hold DISP/BACK button to activate (or deactivate) the camera’s Silent Mode. When this mode is turned on, the X100S functions quietly and inconspicuously. It won’t make any artificial noises and it abstains from using both the flash and the AF-assist lamp.
  • Pressing the DISP/BACK button while selecting an AF field in AF-S Area mode will immediately select the central AF field.
  • Press DISP/BACK in shooting or playback mode to change the view of the currently active display. This means that in order to change the view of either the OVF, the EVF or the LCD, either the OVF, EVF or LCD must be active when you press the button. You can select the display you want to change with the VIEW MODE button. Alternatively, use the eye-sensor to activate a display by looking through it, then change its view with the DISP/BACK button. The X100S can’t read your mind, you need to tell it which display’s view you want to change. ;)
  • Finally, to check (or upgrade) the firmware version of the camera, press and hold the DISP/BACK button while switching on the camera.
  • In manual focus mode, press the AE-L/AF-L button to initiate an autofocus run.
  • Also in manual focus mode, press and hold the command dial to cycle through the camera’s different MF aids: standard, digital split image and focus peaking.
  • Press (but do not hold) the command dial to enlarge the current image to inspect its sharpness. This works in both MF and AF modes.
  • Rather than selecting a function in the shooting menu by pressing the OK button, you can press the shutter button halfway down. Pressing the shutter button halfway down while in playback mode switches the camera directly into shooting mode. You can wake the camera by pressing the shutter button halfway down as well.
  • Double-tap the macro button to switch between normal and macro modes.
Hybrid Viewfinder

Like every non-TTL (mirrorless) optical viewfinder camera, the X100S is prone to parallax error. This means that the image you see in the optical viewfinder doesn’t always reflect the image that is actually recorded by the camera. Even worse, the focus field you have selected may not point to the area of the frame that the camera is actually focusing on. This is unavoidable, as the lens/sensor and the OVF are located on different optical axes and see things from slightly different angles. Parallax error is negligible for objects that are far away, but it can be quite strong when shooting (and focusing on) things that sit close to the camera.

Luckily, the X100S is trying to compensate parallax error in the OVF by illuminating parallax-corrected AF frames once focus has been locked and the X100S “knows” the camera-object distance. In order activate this function, make sure that CORRECTED AF FRAME is set to ON in the shooting menu.

How does it work? The X100S displays two AF boxes in the OVF, a solid one, and a second box with dotted lines. The solid box represents AF at infinity, the dotted box represents the AF target at the camera’s OVF minimum focus distance (MFD). Once the X100S locks focus, a third (green) box)will appear in the OVF, showing you the actual parallax-corrected AF field position based on the calculated distance between the camera and the in-focus subject. If this green box covers the part of the image you intended to be in focus, all is good. If not, you should reframe and try again. Alternatively, you can quickly switch from the OVF to the EVF using the viewfinder selector at the front of the camera. This convenient lever is there for a reason, please use it to quickly switch between the OVF and EVF to get the best of both worlds. In the EVF, there is no parallax or framing error, so even hardcore OVF shooter can temporarily use the EVF to perfectly frame and focus a shot. Before switching back to the OVF, you may want to lock focus with an appropriately configured AF-L button.

Try to avoid the “focus and reframe” method known from DSLR cameras. In order to minimize focus plane shift, it’s better to select one of the camera’s 49 AF fields. While adjusting/selecting AF fields, you can reset their size by pressing the command dial and jump to the center frame by pressing the DISP/BACK button (see shortcuts).

Happy Easter, everybody!

X100S: BHphoto / AdoramaAmazonUS / AmazonDEAmazonUK / AmazonITA / DigitalRev / your ebay / your Amazon
X20:  BHphoto (blacksilver) / Adorama (blacksilver) / AmazonUS (blacksilver) / AmazonUK (blacksilver) / AmazonDE / AmazonITA / DigitalRev / your ebay / your Amazon

For your convenience, here’s a TOC with links to my previous X-PERT CORNER articles:

Rico Pfirstinger studied communications and has been working as journalist, publicist, and photographer since the mid-80s. He has written a number of books on topics as diverse as Adobe PageMaker and sled dogs, and produced a beautiful book of photographs titled Huskies in Action (German version). He has spent time working as the head of a department with the German Burda-Publishing Company and served as chief editor for a winter sports website. After eight years as a freelance film critic and entertainment writer in Los Angeles, Rico now lives in Germany and devotes his time to digital photography and compact camera systems. His book “Mastering the FUJIFILM X-Pro1” (Kindle Edition) (Apple iBook Store) (German version) is available on Amazon and offers a plethora of tips, secrets and background information on successfully using Fuji’s X-Pro1 and X-E1 system cameras, lenses and key accessories.

© 2013 Rico Pfirstinger, all rights reserved.

  • Yogi123

    Great stuff. The shortcut hints fantastic.

    When will you release the X100s book?

    • Since 80% of my X-Pro1 book apply to the X100S, there’s nothing planned at this time from my side, but Michael might eventually update his classic X100 book. I hope he does. If not, I may step in, but I have several things planned, too. Can’t really talk about it, though, not even on Fujirumors. ;)

  • Good stuff…very usefull.

  • klehmann

    Hi Rico,
    Great stuff as usual!
    There’s one thing that always puzzled me regarding the possible ON/OFF-switching of the CORRECTED AF FRAME: Why is it even an option? I mean would’nt it make perfect sense for it to always be ON as a major part of this shooting mode in the OVF?

    • Agreed. It should be ON as a default. I guess this has historic reasons, as the feature was introduced as a firmware update to the original X100.

  • Dima

    Really helpfull stuff.
    Thank you Rico.

  • Bob Cooley

    Rico – thanks for the articles, they are really helpful! Are you going to do an update to your Mastering the Fuji X100 to make it Mastering your Fuji 100s?

    Thanks and cheers!

    • Bob Cooley

      Lol – never mind, i just read your reply about the X-Pro 1… Though I think it would be a good opportunity to sell some more books :)

      • Yep, there’s always some demand, but producing printed books is very time-consuming, it takes months between freezing the manuscript and the book hitting the shelves. By then, the camera may have new firmware with new features and plenty of bug fixes.

  • Jerry

    As a longtime X10 user and a recent X20 owner I’ve been scouring the web looking for information on how to get the best images out what feels like a very different processor. I came across your writings here and based on those bought the Kindle version of your X-Pro1 book.

    I was a bit hesitant at first but have been delighted to find how much of the information presented in the book applies to the X20. I heartily recommend your book to anyone else in a similar position.

    For example having tried a few DR400 images I was slightly baffled at the settings the camera was using in very bright conditions (ISO 800??). Your DR explanation went well beyond your column here and not only explained how to correctly setup the camera but went into detail about how DR works with this processor and when you would or would not use it.

    Exposure and focusing modes are very similar between the X-Pro1 and X20 and many of the menus and settings look almost identical. I initially hoped to be able to use 30-40% of the information in the book but it turns out that 60 to 70% may be a more accurate guess.



    • Jerry, I agree. I have received positive feedback emails from several readers who bought the book not only for their X-E1, but also X100S and even X20. Most of the content applies to all these cameras, as they are all using the same processes and offer very similar features and settings. Fuji is definitely in the process of unifying the X series. I was a bit surprised that the X20’s “inner workings” are more similar to the X-E1 than to the X10, but it’s a fact. Don’t let the almost identical exterior fool you. I guess you are right with your assessment that 70% applies to the X20, and I’d guess 80-90% apply to the X100S and X-E1.

  • I have had my X100S for three days now, your shortcut list has been extremely useful. I am finding the camera very annoying for a number of reasons, but the main one is autofocus. No matter if I have it in multi or single point, the camera always tracks through the focus range every time you press the shutter. Even if you are taking distant shots, it starts in focus, go out, then back in, each and every time you press the shutter. I changed as many settings as I can find, I was just wondering if you could suggest something to stop this (apart from manual focus).


    • My X100S doesn’t do this, and neither does my old X100 or any other X camera with current firmware.

      The X100S uses PDAF in good light (5 EV or better). PDAF doesn’t focus hunt by design. CDAF will of course focus hunt (that’s how CDAF works), but not through the entire focal range. This may only happen in macro mode, but not in general. As mentioned, AF-C can lead to quicker and better results in bad light with tricky subjects.

  • ThomasT

    Has the landscape color potential improved over the X100? According to a ‘color-expertpro ,the X100 dodin’t quite hack the landscapes, but was excellent on the Caucasian’pink’ face.

    Till then, no hurry. I’ll stay with my FF Fuji 175 MP sensor thai has perfect dynamics, microcontrast, saturation, ISO etc etc and needs no PP. Its called Velvia 50

  • “The X100S has hit the shelves” I wish that were true in the USA. A few pre-orders have been filled but the camera is unobtanium unless you want to import one.

  • Craug

    Thanks for the info. The Shortcuts are awesome. I’m going to print my favorites (and ones I will probably forget) on a small card and laminate it. That way I will have a “cheat sheet” always available.

  • Tom

    Hi, In this article you note that “If you plan to use the DR (dynamic range) function (DR Auto, DR200% or DR400%) you should set the camera to Auto-ISO.” I interpret this to mean that there is a choice whether to use DR or not. I can’t find any settings in my 100s to turn off DR. Can DR be turned off?

    Thanks, Tom

    • I think DR100% is essentially turning it ‘off’, isn’t it?

  • Hi,

    I’m not sure I understand what’s special about ‘The Autofocus Trick’. You put the autofocus box over the subject and take the picture… Isn’t that just ‘using the camera as intended’? What’s the trick?

    Sorry if I’m asking what seems like a dumb question!

  • Dave

    I just bought a used X100S and am loving it. However a question: there is option for Focus Check…my experience with this is that it makes the focusing ring extremely sensitive…just touching it will kick in the magnifier. It is a nice feature but wonder if this normal behavior? The problem is that when out trying to compose a shot in manual focus mode with the focus check feature ON, the viewfinder will keep kicking into magnifier mode – which makes composing a shot a little difficult – if you are not aware of where you have your left hand on the lens.

    • Aidan

      It sounds like you have Focus Check enabled. You can switch it off in the second page of the setup menu. I had it on for a while but it kind of drove me nuts. I still like to check my focus, though (I find focusing to be a bit finicky with the X100S), so I focus and then push the command dial, which zooms in the focal point.

      • Dave

        thanks…focus check might be useful when you have camera on tripod (which is rarely) and you do not have your hand on the lens. But man, like you say, it was driving me nuts, kept magnifying as I would try to compose the shot…geeesh!! But good to hear that this is normal behavior. I bought my camera used and the lens hood was mushed in a little on one side, probably from getting slammed in a door. Otherwise not a scratch on the thing…was concerned that maybe it had suffered some internal damage. Focus check OFF however. Appreciate your quick reply.

  • Marcel

    I just got the x100s about a week ago, i noticed that the macro, autofocus is off by a notch, testing it in both auto and manual focus, its a little off, but when i focus normal (non-macro) its fine. is it a software issue? I basically have to refocus the macro or move it forward a little, wondering if this happens to other people?

    • Sudeep Mukherjee


      I have the same issue, hope someone can give a solution. Does this need a trip to the service center?

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