There is definitely grabbing the attention of the Fujifilm world lately, not only thanks to the launch of the Laowa 9mmF2.8 Zero-D (hands on report here).
Also Fujifilm GFX can look forward to the Laowa Magic Format Converter, which allows you to adapte your Canon and Nikon full frame lenses onto the Fujifilm GFX without any vignetting.
Laowa Magic Format ConverterLaowa Magic Format ConverterLaowa Magic Format ConverterLaowa Magic Format ConverterLaowa Magic Format Converter
& More
Now only Laowa. There are other emerging brands that add lenses and accessories to the Fujifilm X and GFX system. The Japanese site dc.watch visted Kipon, Mitakon, Fringer and more at CP+, and shared some images that you can see down below.
We already reported yesterday about the AUTO ISO bug and about the occasional lock-ups. And we also recommended you to use only Fujifilm approved SD-cards to avoid your camera to freeze, as well as using the NP-W126S batteries.
So, if you want to read more, and see the full list of Fujifilm recommended SD-card, read yesterday’s article here.
Now a new video showed up, showing how the camera locks up when using E-Front curtain shutter. We do not know if the tester has a “Fuji approved” SD-card. But I thought to share it anyway, so that you guys can try to duplicate it. You’ll find the video down below, but first feedback is that issue can NOT be duplicated by others.
My personal opinion is that the E-front fail is due to a faulty sample.
Also in this roundup, some IBIS tests, comparisons to Panasonic and more.
I will give you the link down below, and all the youtube videos will be also embedded in the article after the links.
EF-FX AF – 298USD (optically improved. New production from better optic supplier)
Baveyes EF-FX AF 0.7x – 428USD (focal reducer, or “speedbooster”)
EF-GFX AF – 298USD
Now Cinema5D met the Kipon guys at the CP+, and they present the new smart adapters by Kipon. You can see the video here. They say the Canon EF to Fuji X smart adapters will start shipping at the end of March/beginning of April
Especially the “speedbooster” version sounds very interesting.
Here is an overview of the current or soon to be available smart adapters for Fujifilm
The Fujifilm X-H1 has just been released, and our hyperactive Fujifilm X-H1 facebook community found a possible bug. Auto ISO settings keep reset to factory settings if you use the Q Menu. Also FR-reader contacted me via email to report me this (thanks).
Here are three reports:
JASON: Hi all. So I’m wondering if this is a new setting or user error or a bug but I’m finding that the three auto iso settings keep defaulting back to their factory settings and don’t keep my settings? This happens only when I switch between my custom settings in the Q menu. Doesn’t happen with my X-T2’s. Anyone else found this?
JOSH: Is anyone else having a bug where their Auto ISO presets reset after the camera is turned off and on?
TORSTEN: I found a bug! I customized my Auto-ISO settings, but after changing / switching to another C-Setting (C1-C7) the Auto-ISO is resetting to the default values
Fujifilm X-H1 Lock-Ups
There are some reports at our group about lock-ups.
So far it seems lock ups happen mostly to people, who use different SD-cards to those recommended by Fujifilm. Using Fujifilm recommended SD-cards fixed the issue for them. So make sure you use SD-cards appoved by Fujifilm for the X-H1. You can see the list here.
Additionally, FR-readers could expand this list by posting their working (exact) SD-Card Model in the comments. Thanks Frank.
However, some X-H members, like Peter here, say “I have approved cards and faster than approved cards and still experience the lockups however I’ve noticed a correlation to what shutter mode I’m using and since the shutter mechanism is a new element in the technology it makes sense that it may be the cause. At least from my findings. Trying to see if others are experiencing the same thing“.
Besides the Fujifilm recommended SD-Cards, make sure to use the correct NP-W126S batteries (and not NP-W126 – orginal or third party).
This is a controlled lab test, and as imaging resource writes:
“Controlled lab images are not the real world, but they are the very best way to compare one camera’s image quality to another, in order to ensure you are giving yourself the best chance out in whatever world you do happen to shoot“.
So how does the Fujifilm X-H1 compare against the rest of the world?
I will do a more in-depth pixel peeping by myself later on (I have to go back to the hills now, where I probably lost my XF27mm lens cap yesterday while shooting, before it gets dark).
But for the start, though, I compared it to the Fujifilm X-T2. I was expecting the same results (same sensor and processor), and yet, the higher you crank up the ISO, the better the X-H1 looks. At ISO 51,200 the difference is noticeably in favor of the X-H1.
However, you have to keep in mind, that imaging resource now switched from the XF60mmF2.4 to the XF90mmF2 for their lab test, and the 90mm is in part responsible for the sharpness improvement. But overall the lab test shows less grain over the X-T2 at high ISO. Fujifilm might have improved image processing on the Fujifilm X-H1.
Mostly the X-H1 comes out as the winner when compared to other Fujifilm X-Trans III cameras. There are some parts, where the X-T20 & Co show more details than the X-H1, like in the wool thread, shared at the very bottom of this post. The EXIF says the X-T20 was shot with the 60mm at F11 and 1/2500, whereas the X-H1 with the 90mm at F8 and 1/4000.
The Fujifilm X-H1 also beats the Nikon D500 at ISO 51,200, as you can see below.
“In my general experience analyzing images at Imaging Resource for more than five years, I’ve found ISO 3200 to be about as comfortable as I get with APS-C sensors. Of course, that is just a generalization, and there are exceptions to every rule. The Fujifilm X-H1 seems to be more than just an exception to the rule, more like a complete rule breaker.
The image above [admin note: below in this aritcle] has plenty of fine detail where it counts, such as in the mosaic tile pattern, and yet doesn’t introduce a great deal of noise in areas like the shadows behind the bottles. As most of you know, that is the real trick, getting the detail without introducing the noise inherent at higher gain settings. The shadow areas in our target are traditionally prone to plenty of noise depending on the camera and the chosen compression algorithm, and the above combination is a very good one for this sensor size.”
ISO 6400 comparison (The two white specs in the mosiac tile on the X-H1 image are a new lab reflection artifact. It is not a product of the X-H1, as we found through a deeper dive into the phenomenon with another test camera.. We’re still working to resolve the issue.)
