The Perfect Exposure

Exposing and Editing RAW Files the Right Way

The path to technically optimal images leads through two stages: the best possible RAW exposure and competent post-processing. That’s why my Fuji X Secrets RAW workshops deal with both aspects equally.

by Rico Pfirstinger

Note: This is the English version of my German blog entry on Fuji X Secrets. Click here to read the original article in German.

From time to time, participants submit images to my RAW workshops that have been exposed incorrectly. Usually, this is because they want to compensate for their exposure error by processing the RAW image and “salvage” it somehow. This is based on a misunderstanding: RAW processing is not primarily intended as a rescue expedition to improve the technical (and sometimes also creative) mishaps of photos that have turned out badly. Although this may well be possible in individual cases, our goal should be to deliver RAW files that are as technically well exposed as possible. Then we can process them with all the skill at our disposal to make the most out of them.

Garbage In, Garbage Out

The quality of the captured RAW data determines what you can achieve with them in the RAW converter. A simple rule applies: The more light the camera can capture in a shot, the technically superior the image will be. So, do you overexpose vigorously? Of course not! A shot with blown-out highlights that cannot be recovered in the RAW converter is not attractive.

The principle of letting as much light hit the sensor as possible is thus limited by the fact that image-critical highlights in the scene should not be destroyed by the exposure. The photographer decides what is image-critical, not the camera. For a technically pristine image, it is always better to control the camera – rather than being controlled by it.

The Correct Exposure

To set the optimal exposure for a scene, we need some help. Fujifilm’s mirrorless X and GFX Series cameras have several things going for them in this respect:

  • The live view usually (not always!) displays a WYSIWYG preview of the JPEG shot – and thus also serves as an exposure preview.
  • Respectively, the RGB histogram shows the brightness distribution of the JPEG for each individual color channel.
  • A blinking overexposure warning indicates overexposed (blown-out) areas in the live view.
  • Spot metering allows pinpoint brightness measurements for isolated areas in manual exposure mode (M).

Since the live view, the histogram and the blinking overexposure alerts always refer to the JPEG to be generated by the camera (and not to the RAW data), they are based on the JPEG settings that apply at the time. So, it does make a difference which film simulation, contrast or white balance setting is currently in effect. This allows us to specifically find in-camera JPEG settings that are closest to the potential of the RAW data – let’s call them “JPEG settings for RAW shooters”.

Live view, histogram and overexposure warnings depend on the currently selected JPEG settings of the camera. The image above shows the factory settings of an X-H1, the one below our custom “JPEG settings for RAW shooters”. For the live view and the histogram to correspond as closely as possible to the exposure of the RAW file, I recommend low-contrast JPEG settings with reduced color saturation. 

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The GFX 50 Series is an ISO-less Classic

The sensor in the GFX 50 series is certainly not the fastest. Nevertheless, you should not underestimate this ISO-invariant classic with its 50 megapixels. In terms of sharpness and dynamic range, it can still hold a candle to newer developments.

by Rico Pfirstinger

Virtually all cameras of the Fujifilm X series are ISO-less (also known as ISO-invariant). This refers to cameras with sensors for which the ISO setting doesn’t matter in terms of image quality. Only the set aperture and exposure time (shutter speed) are decisive. It’s all about the actual amount of light that reaches the sensor. I have written about this before (German version, English version).

Is My Camera ISO-less?

You can find out yourself to what extent the sensor in your camera is ISO-less. Here’s an example with a GFX 50S: I first shot a consistently lit test subject at f/13, 1/50 sec. and ISO 1600. The result was a correctly exposed image. I then shot the same subject again at aperture 13 and 1/50 sec., but this time I reset the ISO to ISO 100. This is the base ISO value of the GFX 50 series, i.e. its baseline sensitivity. Of course, the second image appears four stops darker. After all, it was taken at an ISO setting that was four stops lower than the first shot, with otherwise the same exposure. To make our second image (captured at ISO 100) appear as bright as the first, we need to boost it four stops in the RAW converter (in our case, that’s Adobe Lightroom). This we do by moving the converter’s exposure slider 4 EV to the right from its zero position.

The same subject shot twice with f/13 and 1/50 sec. – on the left with ISO 1600, on the right with ISO 100 and a subsequent brightening in the RAW converter by 4 EV.

Please click on the image for a larger version.

To better assess whether the GFX 50S used in this example really works ISO-less, let’s take a closer look at enlarged details of the two test shots:

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Sensor Cleaning and IBIS

For most users of X-Series cameras, do-it-yourself sensor cleaning with blowers, sticky sticks or swabs is a matter of course. However, things can get a little bit tricky if your camera has IBIS.

by Rico Pfirstinger

Sooner or later, cameras with interchangeable lenses get dust or dirt on the sensor. When the built-in sensor-cleaning function (SET UP > USER SETTING > SENSOR CLEANING > OK) doesn’t help, you can clean the sensor by yourself.

If you leave your camera’s sensor exposed, it will soon collect dust and spots from dried fluids.

Popular Sensor Cleaning Options

  • Touchless cleaning involves using a blower, like the Giottos Rocket Air Blaster, to rid the sensor of dust particles. A key feature of such devices is a filter in the intake valve that prevents contaminated (dusty) air from being blown against the sensor.
Caution! Don’t use compressed air from aerosol cans that contain propellants. Particles could hit the sensor like tiny projectiles and damage the protective surface!
  • Tough sensor dirt (like water or oil stains) requires wet cleaning with a sensor swab. They consist of wipers that are wetted with special cleaning fluids. Wipe one side of the swab from left to right over the full width of the sensor, and then from right to left with the other side of the swab. Your X-mount camera requires swabs that match APS-C-sized sensors.
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First Look Review: Fujinon GF250mmF4 R LM OIS WR

Reaching Out: GF250mmF4 R LM OIS WR

The new GF250mmF4 R LM OIS WR and the optional GF1.4x TC WR teleconverter lens bring genuine telephoto capability to the evolving Fujifilm GFX medium format system. Featuring impressive detail resolution and three-dimensional subject rendering, the rather moderately priced GF250mm equals a 198 mm lens in 35 mm “full-frame” terms, and its reach can be stretched to 350 mm by attaching the new 1.4x teleconverter. Fujifilm’s GF product introductions are completed by two macro expansion tubes that work with almost all existing GF lenses and can turn the GF120mmF4 into a true 1:1 macro lens.

So is it all worth it? You should be able to decide for yourself after reading this first-look review based on pre-production samples of the GF250mmF4 R LM OIS WR, GF1.4x TC WR, MCEX-18G WR and MCEX-45G WR.

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Fujinon GF 250mm F4: BHphoto, Adorama, AmazonUS
Fujinon GF 1.4x Teleconverter: BHphoto, Adorama, AmazonUS
18mm Macro Extension Tube: BHphoto, Adorama, AmazonUS
45mm Macro Extension Tube: BHphoto, Adorama, AmazonUS

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by Rico Pfirstinger

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Fujifilm X-Pro2: Using Firmware 2.00

Hier gibt es eine deutsche Version dieses Artikels.

Kaizen in Action

Firmware 2.00 for the X-Pro2 offers 20 official improvements and more than half a dozen bug fixes. This article explains what’s new for users of the X-Pro2 and readers of The Fujifilm X-Pro2: 115 X-Pert Tips.

by Rico Pfirstinger

Update (02NOV16): Firmware 2.01 for the X-Pro2 restores compatibility with older Nissin i40 flashguns.

Firmware 2.00 for the Fujifilm X-Pro2 is available free of charge—click here to download the current version directly from Fujifilm’s website, but make sure that the name of the downloaded firmware file isn’t changed by your web browser. To avoid name conflicts, verify that no older firmware file for the X-Pro2 is already in your download folder. The correct file name for an X-Pro2 firmware file is always FWUP0008.DAT.

Firmware Update – Here’s How

Please have a look at tips 4 and 5 of  The Fujifilm X-Pro2: 115 X-Pert Tips (enter coupon XPERT40 for a 40% discount). They offer valuable advice on updating the firmware of your cameras and lenses. Additionally, an illustrated guide about downloading new firmware is available here (MacOS) and here (Windows). Click here for a PDF manual from Fujifilm that summarizes and explains the new functions of firmware 2.00. Sadly, this manual also contains several errors.

To check the current firmware status of  your X-Pro2 and any attached lens, switch on the camera while you press and hold the DISP/BACK button.

Firmware 2.00 takes the X-Pro2 closer to the level of the X-T2

In addition to installing new camera firmware, you must also update the firmware of a dozen XF and XC lenses:

Click on the link for the lens you want to update, or click here to access the general update page for all X-mount lenses. To update a specific lens, its corresponding firmware file must be in the top directory level of your camera’s memory card. To start the update process, insert the memory card that contains the new lens firmware file in slot 1 of your X-Pro2, then press and hold the DISP/BACK button while you switch on the camera.

Important: To copy a firmware file from your PC to an SD card, the memory card has to be mounted as a regular drive. It is not possible to transfer files from your computer to a memory card in the camera via a USB connection. So either use a computer with a built-in SD card slot or connect an external SD card reader to your computer.

It is possible (and also quite practical) to copy the firmware files for your X-Pro2 and all your lenses together to the top directory level of the same memory card. That way, you can perform all necessary updates one after the other from one SD card. Just make sure that the lens you are trying to update is attached to the camera while doing so.

This video from Fujifilm illustrates the firmware update process using an X-Pro1 as an example

Firmware 2.00 contains numerous improvements that affect autofocus performance, the electronic shutter, ease of use and power management. It also offers a new flash system.

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