Limited number of bodies available at top rated ebayUS reseller kenmorecamera
Officially Fuji seems to deny that there is any fix or improvement for the X-T1 D-pad buttons. But some FR-readers say that the new camera they have received after sending back the “old” one because of the light leak, has better buttons. One of these is Nick:
“Patrick, I recently received a replacement X-T1 (for broken rear command dial issues) and can indeed confirm that the rear D-pad (and other rear buttons) have better tactile response. I am unsure whether or not Fuji actually did a tooling change, as I didn’t whip out my micrometer before I sent the old one off”
FR- reader Jon said in the comments:
“[…] when I swapped my X-T1 for the light leak, the new unit I got with the safe serial number (above what Fuji said was not affected by the light leak), I noticed that not only was the light leak not present, but the 4-way controller buttons on the back of the camera were more firm and much easier to activate when pressed. They had a distinct click whereas the previous unit I swapped it for had more mushy buttons that seemed to depress too far when pushed, making them less easy to use/activate. […] I had both cameras in front of me at the store and it was very obvious that the higher serial number unit I got as a replacement was better as far as the buttons go. Whether they’ve changed something or simply corrected an error at the factory at some point, I have no idea. All I can say is that in MY case, the difference is real and I like the new camera’s buttons better than the other one I had. Ultimately, it’s not a big deal though. I could live with the way they were on the other unit, but if I had my preference, obviously I’d pick the one I have now, as far as the button feel/operation goes
So what’s going on? Placebo effect?
Grittymonkey has it again. Fujifilm took his light leaking X-T1, fixed it, cleaned it and sent it back to him within 10 days (with a letter of apology included in the package). Read his experience here. Pretty fast service!
But FR-reader Larry spotted this thread on dpr, where RicksAstro complains about the light leak through the assist lamp. Others don’t have this problem at all or, like Daniel, “can only provoke the issue with at least Iso1600 at 30s and the LED from iPhone more or less pressed against the Focust Assist Lamp (FAL). When I move the LED of the iPhone about 5-6cm away from FAL, there no issue anymore. Even at ISO25600 and 30s. So I wonder if this topic is relevant even for longtime exposures with NDs during daylight.” This video shows Karin pointing a flashlight directly into the assist lamp. Looks a lot like something that 99+% of photographers shouldn’t really worry about.
And if you wanna see a nice light-leak gallery, check out imaging-resource here to see some light leak images taken with the Sony A7r, the Nikon DF and D800 and more. Also Canon cameras like the MarkIII have light leak problems. It seems to be pretty hard for camera manufacturers to block every single photon of light.
X-T1 body in stock at pictureline